KAFENEIONS The old village coffee shop where, by custom(er) only, the men sit and debate the day's events or play tavli over a cup of coffee or, quite likely, over a glass of tsipouro (or ouzo), served with a tall glass of water and mezethes, a side plate of squid or small fishes or nuts. Largely replaced by smart, modern bars in tourist areas, the kafeneions live on in rural communities and provide a glimpse of local life at a bargain price - to anyone brave enough to enter. Fear not, the locals don't bite - they just nibble on their nuts.

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