Here we are in paradise!
Even through into September the tavernas and bars have been busy, if not full. We've had to go out late in the evening to get a table at some tavernas. Demand for car hire went through the roof, in high season car hire prices reached 150€ a day, one was allegedly let out for approaching 1500€ for one week. We hear of record numbers of tourist arrivals in Greece, accommodation capacity reaching almost 100% and record tourist expenditure.
Some of the tavernas have gone 'up market', sometimes just replacing traditional small tumblers with wine glasses the size of small buckets. Some have gone the whole porc (that's French for 'hog'). In (at least) one taverna yiayia is no longer in the kitchen, instead there's an 'executive chef'. While restaurant prices have risen in these tavernas noticeably, portion sizes seem to have shrunk.
There's another side that I've not seen reported everywhere. Maybe it's not quite paradise. Unsolicited, three separate acquaintances we've spoken with have said this year isn't like any other, certainly not down south of the island.
The people are different. Not the locals, the tourists. It seems to have attracted people who possibly wouldn't normally choose Greece, certainly not somewhere (allegedly) as quiet as Kef. Nothing wrong with that, it seems the local tourist industry wants every year to be a record beater. But it has come at a price. We've heard of people dodging out of tavernas without paying, pilfering in shops, one taverna owner in Skala being physically threatened by a customer.
WTF is going on?